What You Need to Know to Sew Knits and Stretchy Fabric: Mastering Stretch Fabrics Sewing Techniques

Sewing knits and stretchy fabrics can be an exciting venture in the realm of textiles and garment making. We often turn to these materials for their comfort and versatility, which make them a staple in fashion. Understanding the characteristics of knit fabrics, such as their elasticity and how they behave differently from woven materials, is crucial for successful sewing projects. Knits can easily stretch out of shape and can be challenging to work with without the proper knowledge and tools.

It's essential to familiarise ourselves with stitching techniques that accommodate stretch without causing the fabric to pucker or the seams to break. Additionally, we must consider the correct machine settings and sewing machine accessories that are specifically designed for handling knits. By adhering to best practices and using appropriate tools, we ensure that our finished garments have clean lines, maintain their shape, and offer the wearer the intended comfort and fit.

Key Takeaways

• Sewing knits requires understanding their unique properties.
• Proper techniques prevent puckering and seam breakage.
• Suitable tools and machine settings are crucial for working with stretchy fabrics.

Understanding Knit Fabrics

Knit fabrics present unique challenges and opportunities in sewing due to their elasticity and structure. We will focus specifically on the functionality of feed dogs and needle selection, which are critical for successful sewing with knit materials.

Feed Dogs Functionality

Feed dogs are the metal teeth located under the needle plate of a sewing machine. Their primary function is to pull the fabric through the machine as we sew. For knit fabrics, it’s imperative to adjust the pressure exerted by the feed dogs to avoid stretching the material. Sewing machines generally have a dial to control this pressure, and for knits, it's advisable to set it to a lighter level than what we'd use for woven fabrics. Additionally, some sewing machines come equipped with a differential feed, allowing us to adjust how the fabric is fed through with even more precision, preventing unwanted puckering or stretching.

Needles Selection

Selecting the proper needle is crucial for sewing knit fabrics. We use ballpoint or stretch needles, which are specifically designed for these materials. Ballpoint needles have a rounded tip that slips between the fabric threads, rather than piercing them, which helps maintain the integrity of the knit structure.

A table for needle size recommendations:

To conclude, using the correct needle and adjusting the feed dogs appropriately will greatly enhance our sewing experience with knit fabrics.

Essential Sewing Techniques

In this section, we'll focus on the foundational methods required to effectively sew knits and stretchy fabrics.

Basting Basics

Before we stitch stretchy fabrics, we employ basting to temporarily hold layers together. We use long, loose stitches by hand or with a sewing machine to baste. It's imperative to remove the basting stitches once the final seam is complete to maintain the fabric’s stretch.

Stretch Stitch Types

Several stitches are essential for maintaining elasticity in knits. Consider the following:

• Zigzag Stitch: It allows fabrics to stretch without breaking stitches.
• Triple Stretch Stitch: This strong stitch is formed by two stitches forward and one back.
• Use a Ballpoint Needle to prevent damage to the fabric.

Seam and Finish Stability

Our seams must stretch with the fabric whilst remaining stable. We achieve this by:

• Utilising a narrow zigzag for seam finishes.
• Clear Elastic: to stabilise shoulder seams and prevent stretching out of shape.
• Twin Needles: for a professional hem finish that retains stretch.

Prioritise these techniques to ensure your garment maintains its shape and resiliency through wear and care.

Machinery for Knits

When sewing with knits and stretchy fabrics, we must choose machinery that can handle the fabric's elasticity without causing distortion or skipped stitches.

Serger and Overlock Use

A serger, also known as an overlocker in the UK, is our go-to machine for constructing knit garments. It simultaneously trims the fabric edge, sews the seam, and overcasts the edge, which makes for neat and stretch-resistant finishing.

Advantages of Using a Serger:

• Speed: Sergers work at high speeds, allowing us to complete projects faster.
• Flexibility: They handle varying thicknesses with ease, which is ideal for multi-layered sections of knitwear.
• Durability: The overlock stitch is strong, preventing seams from unravelling during wear and wash.

Key Features to Consider:

• Differential Feed: This feature enables us to adjust how much fabric is fed through the machine, preventing unwanted stretching or gathering.
• Stitch Options: Most sergers offer a selection of stitches, such as the 3-thread overlock, 4-thread overlock, and rolled hem.
• Ease of Threading: A colour-coded threading guide aids in setting up the machine efficiently.

A serger is not strictly necessary for sewing knits, but it greatly enhances the finish and durability of our projects. If we don't have access to a serger, we can use a sewing machine with a stretch stitch or a narrow zigzag stitch to construct our knit garments effectively.